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This immense narcissus family is divided according to size
and shape of blossom. Recently this classification has been
revised, a fact mainly interesting to the hybridizer or collec
tor. Most of us care only about a few of the large, the me
dium, and the short-cupped groups, and want a reasonable
balance between them rather than a preponderance of any one
type. The delicacy of the narcissus scheme depends on the
color and the airiness of the blossoms. The lighter colors and
the smaller-sized blooms can be used in larger masses than
the heavy trumpet varieties. The recently introduced John
Evelyn hybrids are amazing both for size and exquisite color
ing. A few of these scattered among more common varieties
make excellent accents.
By careful selection a long succession of bloom may be
had with narcissus. The earliest is February Gold, followed
closely by March Sunshine. Then come the trumpets, like the
early King Alfred and the medium-early Aerolite; the incom
parabilis or short cups, such as Fortune and Francesca Drake;
the Leedsi or eucharis-flowered, such as Daisy Schaeffer,
Gertie Miller, and Tunis; the Barri types represented by Fire
tail and Lady Diana Manners; poetaz, the delightfully fra
grant varieties, Laurens Koster, Innocence, and Scarlet Gem;
and finally the poeticus varieties, the last to bloom.
Emphasis on Tulips
In the spring few gardens are a complete success without
tulips. We know their popularity by the frequency with which
we are asked at garden club lectures, "What do you do with
tulips after they have bloomed?" This is a common problem,
the answer depending on how tulips are used.
If small clumps are placed among other plants, or if only
one or two fairly large masses appear at important points in
the garden pattern, do not lift the bulbs each year. If these
are planted eight to ten inches deep, they will last for years;
what is more important, they will be less likely to be eaten by
field mice, since moles whose runnels the mice use, do not
usually burrow so deep. If tulips are planted in long narrow
drifts, rather than in broad clumps, their ripening foliage is
easily masked, or at least attention is diverted from it by
nearby perennials.
In the garden where tulips are the main display, a different
treatment is advisable. Bulbs so important for effect should
be replaced every two or three years. When they need to be
removed, they should be lifted soon after blooming and heeled
in to ripen in good soil and full sun. Later, lifted, dried, and
stored in an airy dry place, they can be sorted, and the large
bulbs replanted in the fall in the cutting garden. It is difficult
to keep them separated so that they can again be used in
studied color schemes.
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